Summer 2015, part 2

After a pleasant stay in Murter we moved on to Tribunj. That was a short trip but with good wind. What a good wind is for sailing is not always good for mooring but we managed anyway, Time for a safe arrival cold beer.

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We stayed here for 2 nights, it’s a great place. On August the 5th we left for Sibenik where we arrived in the morning to find enough moorings available. We could also stock up again on diesel.

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Sibenik, another pearl of the Adriatic.

The weather forecast, via the VHF, was favorable and so we were of to Dugo Otok, via the Kornati islands. Winds were good but later turned to NW, so we had to use the engine in the end. Approximately 35 miles today.

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At peace. Dugi Otok..

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On Friday August the 7th we left around 10.30 to Veli Iz, another island, where we arrived 3 hours later. This is a very good marina with good facilities all year round.

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On Saturday we leave early for the long haul to Ilovik, back North. We leave Silba on starboard.

 

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After a long sail, we arrive in Ilovik and jump in the water to cool down.

On Sunday the 9th, we set sail for the little island of Unije where we drop anchor at 11.30

We pass the afternoon in the water, as it is too hot to do anything else

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The bay fills up very fast. Later in the afternoon we visit the town on the other side. Another favorite island.

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On Monday we sail to Cres, 4 hours away. We stay there for 2 days. No stress in Cres.

Days are filled with walks, swimming, boat maintenance, ice cream and eating fish.

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On Wednesday the 12th, we go back to Krk, another 35 miles.

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This one passes us, close to Rijeka.

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On the way back, to Krk.

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Wanderer in the Adriatic, summer of 2015, part 1

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We were not the only ones on the way to Dover.

After a late arrival at the hotel in France, some sleep and a great breakfast with orange juice & pancakes we drove in 1 go to Krk.

Wanderer was waiting for us in the water and while I made the documents in order at the Luka Kapitana, the girls did the shopping so we would be able to leave for Rab in the afternoon.

Although there was quite a F5 Yugo blowing, the weather forecast for Sunday was much worse and off we went. After 5 hours we arrived, at 18.30. We had reserved a berth in the Marina and we would stay here for 2 days to visit the yearly Rab festival.

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We discovered a new restaurant with a roof terrace which was nice and we all enjoyed the night festival.

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On Monday the 27th we left for Silba at 07.45. Yugo again, but now with 20-25 knots. Not really funny as our direct course was 180 degrees. Later the wind changed direction and we could actually sail the last part. Between Silba and Olib the waves were gone and we went with 7.0 knots to the harbour where we arrived at 12.30

We had a good dinner at the restaurant at the harbour, I just wished I had asked for the pricelist before we started.

Tuesday we left for the anchorage at Nin, which took 5 hours by sail. Nin is a small but one of the oldest towns on the East Adriatic Sea. The anchorage is not very well protected and very shallow.

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Rowing to town was good sport.

Wednesday we left early for Zadar, Marina Borik, we had to go all the way around the Island Vir and we arrived early afternoon. I did some maintenance on Wanderer while the girls went swimming at the beach. In the evening we all went to town. Temperatures very high.

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After Zadar we went to the little and very nice town of Tkon on Pasman Island, we were lucky that we could find a place. Bora was forecasted and the clouds over the mountains on the mainland were a sure sign of it. We stayed there for 3 days, exploring, swimming and relaxing.

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We also did a short side trip to Biograd na Moru, this is a huge charter base and has a chandlery. I bought a fuel filter here. The town has an interesting historical centre, King Coloman (Konyves Kalman in Hungarian) was crowned there almost 1000 years ago.

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The restaurant we choose in Biograd was the Liburnija, excellent.

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August the 2nd we left for the Island Murter, unbelievable the wind was in our backs, with a Force 3-4, all the way to the bay where we dropped anchor. This is a free anchorage and very well protected.

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Make sure you pass this one on the correct side

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Season starter

Last week we were at the boat again.  Great weather.

Perfect for cleaning up and getting her ready for the season.

27 degrees, sunshine.

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I did some maintenance on the engine, waxing and polishing the hull, installed a second solar panel, got the fuel tanks filled up, swapped the GPS unit and cleaned the lockers. I also attached a lock so the boat can be closed from inside. The bilge was cleaned and I installed another manual bilge pump, which can be operated from inside.

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Now I only have to replace the front hatch glass and she will be ready.

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Everything ship shape

Summer 2014 part 2

Sunday the 10th of August. From Bozava back to the mainland; City of Zadar. 18’.

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We arrive, after a very early departure, at 09.30 in Marina Borik in Zadar. The wind was South, B3.

I get fuel at the fuel station while the girls have breakfast and then we take the bus to the centre to explore Zadar. We visit the old town, the sea side and have a great lunch at Konoba Skoblar.

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Monday. At 06.50 we leave the harbour and Zadar behind us. Good memories. Winds light from the South and we are on the Perkins. At 1800 rpm we do 5 knots and use approximately 1.5 L/hour, which is very good for a 28 HP 3-cylinder. Our course is 140 and around 0800 we pass Sukosan.

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At 0930 we pass Tkon, which looks like a nice place to go, maybe next year. At 10 we reach the end of Pasman island and we arrive in Vodice, in the ACI Marina, around 13.30, the last part we did under sail. (trip approximately 36’).  If you like a touristic town filled with holiday makers and noise, you should go there. It will take some time before we go back there, although we had a great dinner and a nice visit to the Nautical museum.

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August 12, Tuesday. We leave the ACI at 0800 and set course 150 between the islands. 6 knots on the engine. From Cape to Cape.

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After Cape Ploca traffic gets more busy and it looks a highway of huge motor boats who have the need to go full speed on the way to and from Hvar. One of them decides to change his course at the last moment to have a closer look at us and we can see and feel his huge waves as he passes approximately 10 meters in front of us. They still impress me with their level of Seamanship. He must have bought his documents.

We pass Drvenik around 1300 and the wind increases and we go a nice 4.8-5 knots on the genny only. It’s a long trip today and we arrive around 4 PM in Marina Vlaska, in Milna on the island Brac. Almost 50 NM. There is a fuel station but I decide to pass as there are too many ships in front of me. Milna is beautiful.

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On Wednesday we do the short trip from Milna to Split. The wind is SE, 7 knots. The girls disappear to the 50 meter swimming pool and I get fuel from the INA station. 15 minutes’ walk away from the harbour and get 40 litre in two trips with the jerry cans. That’s a good sport in 32 degrees sunshine.

I also check the rigging again, the bilge, check the oil, cleaned the deck and below, shined the push and pull pit, charge the batteries, grease everything which needs grease, fill up on water and fix the dinghy tightly on deck because they forecast a bit of a blow from SE tomorrow. Later in the day we enjoy the sights and the shops in Split. The Barometer significantly lower now.

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Thursday, August 14. At 0900 ETD we leave for Tribunj where we arrive ETA 17.30 and drop the anchor. What a day! We started with a SE 6 in our backs but this was slowly decreasing. We put more and more sail on but at Drvenik we were back on the engine. After passing this island the wind returned and we were sailing again.

After we rounded Rt Ploca for the second time this year, the wind turned to NW, with a good Force 4. We felt we were on a submarine, going against the waves. At Tribunj, after 45 NM, both harbours were already full and we dropped the anchor just opposite the small island and next to a ship from Rotterdam, The Netherlands. There was the Woodstock recording on the radio, the beer was cold and the spaghetti nice.  Further away, over Sibenik on the mainland, we saw a big show of lightning and thunder. An evening to remember. I had anchor watch in the cockpit and switched off the anchor light when the sun started to rise.

On August the 15th we had NE winds, between 5 and 15 knots and we were on the way to Betina on the island Murter. Barometer was up again and the sun was bright and hot. It took us 4 hours.

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We didn’t see any Marinero to assist, so we picked our own spot but were later told to move Wanderer. We were given the only free berth in the ‘Village’, where nobody seemed to move. Bikes, plants, shoes were stationed on the quay and people stretched out in their cockpits. We went to swim on the sandy beach and later wandered true the towns of Betina and Murter for hours. We found also goods shops to provision on fruit and veggies and had a superb dinner at the Restaurant Na Moru on the square in Betina. What a great day.

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August 16th. ETD 08.30. The village is still sleeping when we leave direction Zut, course 265 with 5 knots and then through the Kornati Islands to our ‘Salt Lake’ bay on the south side of Dugi Otok. ETA 1300 and we are on a mooring buoy. Of course we cook on board and after the day-tripper boats leave we have the lake for ourselves.

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On Sunday, August the 17th we wake up and the Bora is blowing. We leave anyway the protected bay at 0800 but once outside in the open decide to go back and wait a bit. At 1200 we leave again and by now the wind has turned from NE to NW and calmed significantly. Before 2 PM we arrive in Sali in beautiful sunshine and calm weather. What a difference from the morning. A cruise ship lays for anchor. The girls are off for ice cream and swimming. It’s a nice town with a big harbour. In the evening we enjoy the splendid music from the bar opposite, with a glass of white wine, in our cockpit.

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Monday the 18th we leave early. Slowly reversing, to prevent the mooring lines getting around the prop, we turn towards the harbour entrance.  The weather looks great, not a cloud to be seen and we use the iron sail going back North. I’ve read in the Pilot about a popular anchorage called Zapuntel, between the Islands Ist and Molat.

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We arrive and the girls take a swim but the water is a bit colder than we are used to. Afterwards they lounge on the deck and work on their tan. I put the dinghy in the water and row ashore to get ice cream to surprise them. I look for a shop but the only one I find is closed until 1700. I try at the restaurant and have more luck. Later that afternoon we explore this side of the island, which is very quiet and peaceful. The anchorage is filling up quickly. We have a look at the two restaurants but it’s decided to cook on board.

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Tuesday, August 19th, 2014. After a good sleep and checking the weather forecast we are off. We originally planned to have a short trip to Silba but I want to take advantage of the wind to sail. We have SE winds B4 which stands for excellent sailing North to Rab. We pass Silba and Olib going 6 knots. The Monsun is doing a great run through the water. This is Sailing. Thanks Olle Enderlein and Hallberg Rassy for designing and building this wonderful yacht. Way too early for me we approach Rab. The anchorage before the city has a lot of swell with south winds and I decide to try the ACI. We get a friendly reception this time.

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Rab is a great town.

Wednesday we have an uneventful trip back to Krk. Last year this peace, open to the Velebitski channel, was a bit more challenging and gave us damage on the genua.

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Clouds were beginning to build and darken, for sure a coming change of weather. Around 1400 we arrived in our harbour and after delivering my crew on the quay, I motored to the travel lift and the shore crew lifted Wanderer on the hard. I spent the rest of the day and Thursday on cleaning and maintenance:

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Check and grease impeller, relocate Garmin GPS 120 XL, service toilet, clean floors, check oil and fuel filters, sand and varnish tiller and cabin doors, clean and polish the interior wood, spay all zippers with WD-40, take off the sails, spray hood, flags, anchors and safety equipment, flush the engine with fresh water and anti-freeze solution, check engine coolant, adjust alternator belt tension, check engine spares, clean engine, check water lock and exhaust, clean cockpit drainage, check mast, boom and the running and standing rigging, polish all stainless steel, engine and transmission oil, check rudder, prop and axle, empty water tank, clean bilge + antifreeze (also in toilet), pack the dinghy, service all sea cocks, check all hoses, disconnect batteries, grease and check all locks (including engine room top) and then she was ready for her winter sleep. I take the spare starter battery home.

Summer 2014 part 1. North Adriatic

After an interesting drive we arrived at the boat on Saturday afternoon. Wanderer was already waxed and polished and waiting in the water. Excellent service from Dario.

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Also the new 50 meter of anchor chain was on board, I only had to attach the Rocna.

Sunday we spent with getting the final provisions, diesel and water. I had a hard time changing the oil filter. Firstly because it is in an awkward position and I had to completely remove the gangway. Hallberg Rassy’s quality construction was dismantled and then I found out that the spares I had ordered for my Perkins where not the correct ones. Fortunately I had another fitting genuine Perkins oil filter. I also checked the impeller, pumped the dinghy and completed the whole to-do list. Weather forecast for Monday was good with Bora for Tuesday. Later that Sunday a huge hail storm passed over us which dented my car but no damage on Wanderer. Even the small cups of the wind meter survived!

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Monday morning August 4, 2014, saw us leaving around 9 AM as we set course South for the bay Kolotar on the South side of Island Cres (pronounced Sres). Approximately 25’. Lots of dolphins around.

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The wind was light and East, the sky clouded, especially above the mountains on the mainland. A sure sign of Bora. At 1400 we were at the mooring in this beautiful bay.

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Tuesday morning and the wind was howling and screaming but we lay well protected and the temperature was good so we all went swimming. We later took the dinghy to the shore to see the state of the Sea and afterwards walked (far and long) the path to Punta Kriza and from there on the road to the camping on the other side where we had a great pizza and some cold drinks. Back at the mooring we met the friendly couple who collect the fees (114 Kuna for Wanderer) and the garbage. They also come in the morning to sell fresh bread and pastries, a welcome service!

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The next day still Bora, the Meteo center in Split warns for NE gusts of 50 knots. We decide to walk to the Meli bay. We follow a small South bound trail which leads into the forest but a meeting with a wild boar scares everyone and we return to find the main path to the bay. Wow, it’s definitely worth the walk, beautiful scenery and clean clear water for swimming. Sun in our eyes and salt on the skin. In the evening, back on board, we prepare spaghetti and we notice the wind decreasing.

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Thursday, August 7. Our neighbours on a Bavaria 40 try to get out of the bay but there are big rollers over the bar and they turn around and re-moor next to us. An hour later we leave, around 1300, passing well away from the underwater dangers and after reaching deep water we roll out a part of the genny and we are on the way to the island Pag, another 25 miles. Later the wind changes to NW 2-3 Beaufort. Course 130 degrees to Simuni where we can provision on water and electricity to load the Kindles in this excellent harbour. We arrive around 17.30 and after showers head off to the restaurant Villa Olea for the famous Pag cheese and ham.

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Friday, August 8. What a perfect day!

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West to South West winds, Wanderer is doing very well between 4 and 7 Knots with full sails all the way to Veli Iz on…..Iz island. We leave at 10.45 and we arrive at 4 in the afternoon. It’s pretty hot now.

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Saturday, August 9. There’s a light wind which brings us in 3 hours to the little harbour of Bozava on Dugi Otok (= long island). Although we arrive around noon the whole harbour is full of ships already. We take the last position next to where the ferry will be. All fenders out.

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We take the ancient path over the mountain to Soline where we find this nice beach bar. Cold beer and Blues music from R.L. Burnside & The Sound Machine; fantastic!

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420 Racer

I bought a used 420 on Ebay. It came with a combi beach / road trailer and everything else, minus the sails. Imagine going over the M25 doing 40 miles / hour and trucks passing my car and trailer. After getting on the M1 I even got hope I might just make it till home!

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A 420 is a 2 person sailing dinghy with trapeze and spinnaker and really fast. We plan to sail it at the local club and after some training with my young crew we may even enter the Sunday competition……but before that…some work to do to get her back in top shape.

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some dents, scratches and cracks but structurally she’s fine

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Glassfibre, epoxy and putty does wonders

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And so does Toplac

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And a new rudder is coming as well:

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As soon as we get a day without wind and some warm temperature (in March in the UK?) I will do the deck. Pictures hopefully soon!

We had to go to the sea again; visit to Lowestoft

I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,
And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking,
And a grey mist on the sea’s face, and a grey dawn breaking.

I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,
To the gull’s way and the whale’s way, where the wind’s like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover,
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.

From SALT-WATER POEMS AND BALLADS, by John Masefield, published by the Maxmillan Co., NY, © 1913, p. 55; the poem was first published in SALT-WATER BALLADS, © 1902.

Last Saturday we drove to Lowestoft, wet ‘n’ windy.

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We went straight to a Fish and Chips and afterwards we strolled the beach, the town, the harbour and the Marina. Wow, really good to see the sea again.

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We saw some pretty ships as well: Contessa’s 32, Vancouver 27 and more. The English know how to build nice ones.

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And a bit neglected Vega

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Summer 2013 Week 3

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August 18. Nice trip to Veli Iz, I love this area. No weather warnings, beautiful weather. We tried to get diesel at the fuel station half way at Zaglav but when we saw all the motor boats racing towards the harbour and all the others already waiting I decided to go on without, we still have some reserve.

I am not exactly sure how much diesel our Perkins uses and as we have no fuel gauge, it is always a bit of a guess and I want to stay on the safe side. That is why I carry several jerry cans in the cockpit locker. We pass Ugljan island with its Venetian castle which we climbed last year.

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Close to Veli Iz two motorboats feel the urgent need to pass us just before the harbour entrance, one on each side, I have to keep my course and their waves almost get the spaghetti on the floor.  Veli Iz is very nice. A good protected harbour with hot showers, nice restaurants and shops for fruit, vegetables and all you need is boat. Very relaxed. Our berth was this time in the inner harbour, next to a friendly Italian family on their Bavaria. Here we had the best food of the whole trip and friendly service. Make sure you have a reservation.

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August 19-21. Visiting Molat. It’s a 4-5 hours trip to Molat from Veli Iz, stunning views as we go along the islands, and we had great sailing. We passed Sestrunj close by, which looks worth a visit next year.

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Arriving in Molat we’re lucky and get a nice place at the quay, right next to the coffee bar. The barometer reading now 5 points down and the weather forecast is a strong Bora for the next two days. More and more boats come to find shelter and the place fills up quickly and even more have to find another berth or sail to the anchorage more North on the island. This is not a bad place to be stuck; actually it is one of my favourites. Lots of wind and big seas on the other side of the island next day. We had long walks here to most sides of the Island and enjoyed ourselves. I could stock up on diesel and fresh bread, doughnuts and apple pie were sold at the quay in front of the boat every morning. Nice strong espresso was served at the coffee bar opposite us. Girls were swimming and reading, peace and quiet. We ate pizza in the cockpit for dinner.

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August 22. Our usual early departure. I already paid the harbour dues the previous evening, the weather has settled. We went on the outside of the Islands, via Ist and Skradar. The wind was still NE Beaufort 4-5 until we reached the island Olib but afterwards it turned to NW force 2-3. We were high on the wind towards Rab were we dropped the anchor in the bay just outside the town. We originally planned to stay in the ACI but the personnel were not exactly friendly, same like last year, so I turned the ship around and we left. They have obviously a management problem and I am not going to spend money there. It was now 15.30 and as we did approximately 40 miles today, it was time to get the dinghy in the water and see the town for ice cream. Later in the evening we see the Marina is still only half full and that doesn’t surprise me. Rab town is magnificent.

August 23. Back to Krk.

Exciting last day, we are crossing the Velebitski part between Rab and Krk in a Bora. Beaufort 5-6, more in gusts, waves to match that. Spray flying all over and soon I am completely wet. Lots of water on deck. Crew is holding tight in the cockpit but all are happy smiling and trusting ‘Wanderer’. The captain hopes that the wind will not further increase. No chance to shoot a video or pictures as I need both hands on the helm. When we get closer to Krk Island I can ease the course and we get the wind and waves from the quarter and we even get comfortable! Unfortunately not much later the genua rips in a gust, which is going to be a trip to the sail maker! He will also replace the worn uv-strip.

Later that day the weather clears, we are approaching Krk city and our HR Monsun is hauled out of the water.

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Summer 2013 week 2

August 11. The weather has cleared and Melitta wants to see Hvar so there we go! We leave around 0830 and sail most of the way to the ACI marina ‘reasonably close’ to the city centre. We have to pay 460 KN for the berth and the water-taxi to the city is between 60 and 100 KN per person. It is very busy in Hvar and many boats try to find a mooring or berth at or opposite the quay, chaos again. We have a great afternoon and evening in the city but I am happy I decided to go in the ACI where we are safe, quiet, with water and electricity.

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August 12. The wind is 7 knots from the SE and we left 0830 to the island of Vis which was on my to-go list.

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Around 11 we are anchored in 5 meter dept with 30 meter rode. I wish I had opted for chain; this will go on the to-do list. With rode you have to be very careful with chafe and I think the Monsun will lay a lot quieter behind a chain because of the weight. My back will not agree. This is a good anchorage between the ferry pier and the fuel station. Enough places to tie your dinghy to. Stunning island, very nice museum. Famous for wine.

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Later in the afternoon there is quite a breeze from the West but the Rocna is great as always and we leave with the dinghy to explore the towns of Vis and Kut where we see a lot of charters struggling to berth with this side wind, a nice show to follow from the beach. We visit a nice older couple who produce and sell wine from the Island and we have a good dinner at the quay (To Je To Sandwiches and Food). When we row back I see a boat anchored right next to us, way too close for comfort. I call out the skipper and tell him to move somewhere else as I was here first. It is a night without wind. The sun is coming up and I decide to leave.

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August 13. The good thing of an early departure, apart from seeing the sun come up, is that you are sure to find a berth or mooring in Croatia in August. After 5 hours we arrive at Milna, on the island of Brac. There are several options for berthing and we choose the Marina Vlaska, next to the swimming area. It is a nice walk along the water to the interesting town. Good shops, bakeries and restaurants. It was a bit of a hassle to get out of the berth the next morning, going backwards with the long keel, as the water depth gets very low at the inside berths. The Barometer was still stable; I check it several times per day. I also fixed a small leakage on the diesel fuel pipe and later that evening we had a nice fish plate for the whole family.

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August 14. Weather forecast for the North Adriatic does not look good. We are in the Central Adriatic zone but we know it will move our way latest in a couple of days. We made a short trip from Milna to Split on the mainland. Just two hours and we arrived at Zenta harbour. We had good memories from last year and the location is great for exploring the city and shops are close by.

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The harbour is a bit expensive compared to the service offered but you can’t beat the pool which is located next to it. We cooked on board and from 1900 the Bora starts to blow with gusts up to 30 knots, luckily we are fixed tight on 2 mooring lines.

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August 15. National holiday also in Croatia and the wind is still blowing, the forecast promises better weather later on. ‘Life is not about waiting for storms to pass’ and after we finish food shopping at the Billa we leave for Vinisce, 16 miles West of Split. There we anchor in the bay in 4 meters of water. There are two other ships in the bay but it will gradually fill up. Lots of sea grass but no problem for the anchor. Wind NW 20 knots now, in line with the weather forecast. Checked and greased the rigging again today. In the evening a small boat comes to collect the fee for anchoring here, which I find strange but they show official papers and I get an invoice. New tricks?

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August 16. Friday, almost two weeks on board and it’s time to head up North. The sunny weather is back. We leave to u. Tratinska on Zirje at 0700 and the ETA is 1200 as we have wind 3-4 Beaufort against us and we need to use the engine. Course 305. Later we are on the mooring in a bit cold but crystal blue water. We made a big walk here to the 2 smaller towns on the island.

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Very peaceful, beautiful nature. Olives and grapes everywhere and some very old cars. There is only one restaurant close to the bay, expensive and we choose to have dinner on board.

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August 17. We left at 0700 and we entered the Kornati islands. You need careful navigation here and this is no place to sail through by night as there are a lot of unlit navigational hazards. We checked the castle on Kornati on the way. The wind did not know what to do today and we raised and lowered the sails several times today.

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We left the islands and went out to open sea and from there we had a great sail up to the salt lake, as we call it. The last miles we had to tack and in the early afternoon we were on the mooring, swimming first and then to the lake, which was really warm. We decided to give the restaurant a try but it was horrible food and overpriced.

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Other than that, this is one of our favourite places. One week left, slowly time to move back.

Summer 2013 week 1

I flew from the UK to Hungary and from there we took the car towards Krk, where we arrived in the early afternoon. Normally we cruise in July but because of all kind of reasons we were now in August.

Wanderer was already in the water and we started to prepare: fill up drinking water, food, diesel, sails up, weather forecast, checking the pilots, stowing clothes, anchors, life vests and other gear. Batteries are 100%. Due to good planning and preparation we are able to leave early on Sunday the 4th of August.

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Our first trip takes us to Ilovik. The forecast is good, no warnings and a light West wind. We motor sail South with 5.5 knots. The last hours of the trip the wind turns to NW and picks up in strength and we have a great sail towards the sheltered channel where we arrive at 1600. To our surprise we see that we have only one mooring left. Not much space to manoeuvre and quite windy but a helpful neighbour assists with his dinghy, thank you! Later arrivals need to anchor and the place fills up. We row the dinghy ashore and have a nice fish dinner.

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August 5. Short hop to Silba in light winds although we roll because of heavy swell out of the NW. We arrive and drop the Rocna in 6 meter water, full power backwards, fixed. The girls go to the beach while I do some work and cleaning on the ship and plan the next route. During the evening some concert starts with loud music till 0400 AM. Not much sleep and we leave as first at dawn.

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August 6. Foggy at first and we have light wind from SW-W. We are going direction Zadar but later we change course to Sali. At 0945 we are between the islands Molat and Sestrunj and we have course 140. It is nice hot with a light breeze; perfect. We arrive around 1400. We have some issues with a German charter boat which passes us in the harbour and takes our place. Not very polite or good seamanship and I tell them very clearly. The harbour master is friendly and very helpful. We pay here 180 KN for the berth and we top up our water for 90 KN. Sali is a very popular harbour and by 1600 the place is packed. Still more and more ships come and it is completely chaos but the show is great to see.

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August 7. No warning except fog on the 0600 weather forecast (which is available in English around 0730) although we already left around 0630. We are on the way to the mooring field at Kaprije. It makes a beautiful trip and we have an ETA of 12.30 in the bay which is only open to the NW. We pick the mooring in one go, we are getting good at this. The harbour master comes to collect the fees; 164 KN for the night. The water is very clear and we all jump and play in the water. Later in the village we look successfully for , electricity,Wi-Fi, shadow, pizza and beer. I forgot to bring the 12V adapter for the kindle’s, Ipad and BB so we need to load them where we can. It’s really hot weather and slowly we get into the slower holiday mood.

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August 8. We leave early again to Sibinik and after a 3-hour trip on the motor we arrive. We berth at the city quay were we get friendly assistance and information. The water here is not very clean but the beach is far away from the quay. Almost a half hour walk. First we need ice cream. The old city itself is beautiful, with small streets and historical buildings. Ship chandler, fuel (I get another 40 litre diesel) and food shops are at the quay. We had a very nice dinner in the evening. Definitely a place to come back.

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August 9. The weather forecast is not good. Bora (NE wind) with gusts up to 40 knots expected later in the day. We sail to Rogoznica, there is a protected anchorage. I am happy to arrive because we see a huge black band of clouds on the horizon, getting closer and closer. I have by now great faith in my 15 Kg Rocna and in the bay we anchor on 50 meter rode in 10 meter depth. With the dinghy we row to the shore for coffee and ice cream and we explore the little town which is very nice. We cook spaghetti on board. The wind only starts to blow next morning so we have a reasonable quiet night, although I check the weather and the anchor every hour. Next time I will anchor a bit further up in the bay, where the water is 5-6 meter deep.

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August 10. Saturday and we are one week in our cruise. The weather forecast is still ugly. It is fresh, the wind blows and sometimes we hear thunder. We decide to wait a bit to see what the weather will do. The toilet (RM69) starts to leak but I have a repair set with spares so that is a small job. The engine oil looks like new and I do some more stuff around the boat. At 1200 we leave, the weather looks a bit better. We leave the anchorage with a reefed genua and we are doing almost 6 knots. Outside there are ‘huge’ waves. I estimate the wind a good Beaufort 6 but since we have wind and waves from behind all is well. The Monsun flies and after a while the crew starts to enjoy the trip to Maslinica. We arrive a bit after 3 in the afternoon, the wind has gone down quite a bit and we start to prepare for a berth in the harbour. Although they have a lot of empty slots we are told that this harbour is reserved for big ships, which pay more fees! Not recommended this place. Unfortunately this is becoming the rule in more places (like Seget in Trogir) and in August. We start plan B and go to the anchorage next door. This is a very narrow and well protected bay (now called Pappy bay by us) and you need to anchor and then bring a line to shore. See the picture. I put out two anchors as the weather forecast is still bad and the Bora blows hard here between the mountains. My nice German neighbour helps me where to drop my anchor.  With the dinghy we row to shore and visit the village by foot, where everything is very expensive and ready for the crews of the ‘big’ ships, we nicely cook on board and enjoy the evening with a glass of wine in this superb place.

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Wanderer on the left side of the picture