August 11. The weather has cleared and Melitta wants to see Hvar so there we go! We leave around 0830 and sail most of the way to the ACI marina ‘reasonably close’ to the city centre. We have to pay 460 KN for the berth and the water-taxi to the city is between 60 and 100 KN per person. It is very busy in Hvar and many boats try to find a mooring or berth at or opposite the quay, chaos again. We have a great afternoon and evening in the city but I am happy I decided to go in the ACI where we are safe, quiet, with water and electricity.
August 12. The wind is 7 knots from the SE and we left 0830 to the island of Vis which was on my to-go list.
Around 11 we are anchored in 5 meter dept with 30 meter rode. I wish I had opted for chain; this will go on the to-do list. With rode you have to be very careful with chafe and I think the Monsun will lay a lot quieter behind a chain because of the weight. My back will not agree. This is a good anchorage between the ferry pier and the fuel station. Enough places to tie your dinghy to. Stunning island, very nice museum. Famous for wine.
Later in the afternoon there is quite a breeze from the West but the Rocna is great as always and we leave with the dinghy to explore the towns of Vis and Kut where we see a lot of charters struggling to berth with this side wind, a nice show to follow from the beach. We visit a nice older couple who produce and sell wine from the Island and we have a good dinner at the quay (To Je To Sandwiches and Food). When we row back I see a boat anchored right next to us, way too close for comfort. I call out the skipper and tell him to move somewhere else as I was here first. It is a night without wind. The sun is coming up and I decide to leave.
August 13. The good thing of an early departure, apart from seeing the sun come up, is that you are sure to find a berth or mooring in Croatia in August. After 5 hours we arrive at Milna, on the island of Brac. There are several options for berthing and we choose the Marina Vlaska, next to the swimming area. It is a nice walk along the water to the interesting town. Good shops, bakeries and restaurants. It was a bit of a hassle to get out of the berth the next morning, going backwards with the long keel, as the water depth gets very low at the inside berths. The Barometer was still stable; I check it several times per day. I also fixed a small leakage on the diesel fuel pipe and later that evening we had a nice fish plate for the whole family.
August 14. Weather forecast for the North Adriatic does not look good. We are in the Central Adriatic zone but we know it will move our way latest in a couple of days. We made a short trip from Milna to Split on the mainland. Just two hours and we arrived at Zenta harbour. We had good memories from last year and the location is great for exploring the city and shops are close by.
The harbour is a bit expensive compared to the service offered but you can’t beat the pool which is located next to it. We cooked on board and from 1900 the Bora starts to blow with gusts up to 30 knots, luckily we are fixed tight on 2 mooring lines.
August 15. National holiday also in Croatia and the wind is still blowing, the forecast promises better weather later on. ‘Life is not about waiting for storms to pass’ and after we finish food shopping at the Billa we leave for Vinisce, 16 miles West of Split. There we anchor in the bay in 4 meters of water. There are two other ships in the bay but it will gradually fill up. Lots of sea grass but no problem for the anchor. Wind NW 20 knots now, in line with the weather forecast. Checked and greased the rigging again today. In the evening a small boat comes to collect the fee for anchoring here, which I find strange but they show official papers and I get an invoice. New tricks?
August 16. Friday, almost two weeks on board and it’s time to head up North. The sunny weather is back. We leave to u. Tratinska on Zirje at 0700 and the ETA is 1200 as we have wind 3-4 Beaufort against us and we need to use the engine. Course 305. Later we are on the mooring in a bit cold but crystal blue water. We made a big walk here to the 2 smaller towns on the island.
Very peaceful, beautiful nature. Olives and grapes everywhere and some very old cars. There is only one restaurant close to the bay, expensive and we choose to have dinner on board.
August 17. We left at 0700 and we entered the Kornati islands. You need careful navigation here and this is no place to sail through by night as there are a lot of unlit navigational hazards. We checked the castle on Kornati on the way. The wind did not know what to do today and we raised and lowered the sails several times today.
We left the islands and went out to open sea and from there we had a great sail up to the salt lake, as we call it. The last miles we had to tack and in the early afternoon we were on the mooring, swimming first and then to the lake, which was really warm. We decided to give the restaurant a try but it was horrible food and overpriced.
Other than that, this is one of our favourite places. One week left, slowly time to move back.